What makes a bed stand out the most is the headboard. You can easily make a gorgeous headboard yourself with a little bit of time, effort and creative thinking. In order to make your own headboard, think outside the box. Many materials you can use for a headboard had other original purposes like folding closet doors, old windows or even part of a fence. Sand, repaint and upholster to give them new life then secure them to the wall behind your bed. Get creative when repurposing materials. Use painters tape to tape off designs and layer on the colors.

One of my favorite headboard projects is a padded headboard. All you need is a piece of plywood, foam, some fabric and a staple gun. Secure the foam to the piece of plywood then stretch your fabric around the entire piece. Secure the fabric to the back of the plywood with a staple gun and in a couple hours you have a totally customized headboard for well under $100. What’s great about this project is that the options are endless. You can go to a fabric store and choose any fabric you like, guaranteeing a perfect match to your décor.

Another great way to set off your bed is with a draped fabric headboard. Make a simple cornice box out of some plywood and fabric (similar to the process for a padded headboard) and secure it to the wall. Go to the fabric store and pick out one or two fabrics that complement your décor. Begin by securing them inside the cornice box then drape them with a few hooks for a truly elegant look for half the price of a store bought piece.

One of the biggest money savers at the end of summer is on patio furniture. Many retailers take deep discounts on sets in order to move them quickly. In order to find the best deals, it’s best to wait until after labor day. If you can stand to wait a few months before you can use your awesome new patio furniture, you can easily save yourself hundreds of dollars and possibly buy a nicer set than you could originally have afforded.

Another area that retailers give huge discounts in at the end of summer is on lawn equipment. If you have been thinking about buying a new lawnmower or if your trimmer has taken a turn for the worse, fall is the time to buy. After labor day, you should be able to find discounts on lawn and garden tools of at least 30% if not more. They might sit in your shed for a few months, but the amount of money you can save is well worth the wait.

When it comes to your yard, making it beautiful can be expensive – espeically when it comes to new plants. In the springtime when most people are planting, the prices hit record highs. However, once autumn hits, stores are desperate to get rid of any leftover plants. If you live in an area where it will still be warm for a few weeks, you can save some serious dough. Many stores discount their plants up to 80% off! You won’t see the results of your savings until they bloom next spring but that’s about as close to seeing money on a tree as you can get!

Real hardwood flooring, while it will cost you more than laminate, will provide you with a few important benefits. You can’t beat the appearance of a true hardwood floor, they really are beautiful. Many of the hardwood options out there are also quite scratch resistant. Another benefit of hardwood floor is ease of repair. It is relatively easy to repair any damaged boards and you can also sand them down for refinishing. If you take good care of your hardwood floors, they can last for 30 years or more.

Laminate flooring is definitely the more cost efficient way to go and it also provides some benefits. The appearance of laminate has improved greatly but still will never stand up to a true hardwood. However, laminate flooring is extremely durable, scratch and stain resistant, making it an excellent choice if you have small children and or pets. Laminate flooring also requires very little maintenance and is easy to clean. With laminate however, it is more difficult to replace any boards that get damaged and this type of flooring cannot be refinished.

So, when deciding on true hardwood or laminate, consider your circumstances and weigh all of the pros and cons. Either way, you are sure to end up with some beautiful new flooring!

Let’s start with the steal. You don’t have to spend thousands of dollars to get a decent refrigerator with ample space. A great example is the LG Bottom Freezer mount refrigerator. It should run you just under $800 and comes from a reliable brand of appliances. At 22.4 cubic feet it provides plenty of storage space and is energy star certified to cut your electric bill. It has temperature controls and plenty of freezer space. There is no icemaker/water dispenser on the front but if you are willing to do without this feature, this is a great steal.

If you are looking to go more mid-range when purchasing a new refrigerator, consider a style like the Maytag French Door refrigerator. This type of fridge is going to run you about $1200-$1500 but if you shop well, you can find a great deal. This particular fridge offers a ton of space at 25 cubic feet and the French door style really opens it up. When you go for a mid-price refrigerator you are also typically going to get an ice/water dispenser on the door. This style of fridge is going to give you the most bang for your buck when it comes to resale.

If you want to splurge on your new refrigerator, there are some great options that will put you right in the lap of luxury. Try the LG stainless steel double drawer French Door refrigerator. This fridge offers features like a double drawer freezer pullout, 27.5 cubic feet, slide out spill proof shelves and an extra tall ice/water dispenser. At about $2200 it may hurt the pocket but you can’t find a better appliance.

Nothing more frustrating than getting a really good deck project finished only to have the rain…well,rain on your parade.

Follow these tips to avoid drainage issues.

Water Direction

Directing the water to one location in large amounts will simply lead to overflow and erosion issues.  Water will tend to accumulate and pool as well, so you need to ensure even flow across the area – use a slight, downward gradient and multiple channels for the water to be directed away from the area or into your drains.  If you are feeling green, direct the water to your lawn and flower bed areas to supplement their watering or even by collecting it for later use.

Use Round or V-shape Channels

Don’t use square-shaped channels as these tend to become blocked by leaves and debris more easily.  Using a rounded or v-shaped channel will minimize this and the debris is more likely to be transported away from the area with the run-off.  These channel shapes also promote an even flow of water from the area which helps avoid water accumulation or pooling.

Use the Right Drainage System

Some drainage systems will not handle the volume of rain water you experience.  Make sure the drainage system you use is going to be capable of handling the level of water you are likely to experience.

Drainage Life Expectancy

Thick PVC or plastic piping is likely to provide the longest life expectancy for the decking drainage – using metal pipes is only likely to lead to corrosion and deterioration in the system.  There is another issue with using metal drainage systems in that the water tends to become poisoned due to corrosion and this in turn is bad for plants, animals and potentially even for your family.

Stop!

Try these 5 tips first and save your dollars.

Off-the-Shelf Products

There are plenty to choose form but, a word of caution. Check the ingredients as many chemicals used are highly toxic and will affect the local water supply – this said, they usually unblock a sink in a few minutes.

Plunger

A couple of dollars will buy you a plunger and you should always have one – if you don’t borrow one from your neighbor. Applying a plunger and some elbow grease will usually shift all but the most stubborn blockages – make sure you have a round-shaped plunger to do this job and not the oval-shaped ones.

Plunge three times then check the water level to see if you are getting anywhere. Repeat this for no more than 4 times – if you haven’t shifted the blockage by that point, you need to look at some other strategy.

Vinegar

Try this instead of the plunger – put a quarter-cup of vinegar into the sink, or you can take a quarter-cup of baking powder and add this to the vinegar and then apply to the blockage. This will create foam so beware of spillage, but leave it until the foaming has finished and then get your plunger again and repeat.

Snake

This will tackle really bad blockages and is a flexed cable for threading through the pipes. Be careful in how you use a snake as you can damage the pipes and you need a degree of experience to become proficient at clearing a blockage. If you have frequent blockages in your home it will be better to buy one, but if you only need one occasionally it will be cheaper to rent them.

Remove & Clean the Trap

The U-bend is where a lot of debris accumulates and this ends up clogging the sink. Remove the trap by unscrewing the pipes here, which is usually a simple job. IMPORTANT: make sure there is a bucket underneath the trap when you are unscrewing it as there will be an outpouring of water and debris when you unscrew it.

The most common issue is a clogged vent with accumulations of dust, lint and debris which will block the vent and lead to dangerous overheating. Your dryer may switch itself off spontaneously which is due to the thermostat kicking in, however older dryer models may not have one which can lead to a fire risk. You can deal with this by purchasing a vent cleaning kit which is usually a brush with an extending arm. Inserting this into the vent and brushing out the dust and debris. If you are facing a really stubborn vent problem, grab a leaf blower and use that to blow out the debris.

Old dryer vents also frequently allow for cold air to enter your home, but this is not the only thing you have to worry about. They also provide a means of entry to your home for rodents and insect infestation. Older homes have experienced settling and it is common to find gaps appearing between the vent and surrounding external wall. You can tackle this easily enough with a caulking gun and an exterior sealant affixed around the edges of the vent.

The dryer hose may also have become worn and damaged, and it is not uncommon to find it has become knotted or has collected kinks. This allows for dust and moisture to collect within it and this can lead to mildew as well as ineffective venting, which leads back to the overheating and fire hazard issue. Usually the best course of action is simply to replace the hose entirely – it is cheap to buy and simple to fit, so save yourself time and effort and invest in a few dollars in a new hose.

Cleaning out the gutters is one of the least favorite things that a homeowner has to do routinely. However, rain gutters are very important and help to protect your home. Gutters protect your home’s foundation from erosion and leaks when it rains. If leaves and debris clog your gutters it can hold stagnant water that could be a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

Cleaning out the gutters on your home is a fairly simple task to do. It involves using a ladder and your garden hose to flush out the debris. It is best if you have assistance when doing this. You will want to have someone around to turn the water on and off and to be there in case you slip or fall. If you have someone helping you the task will go faster and you won’t have to climb up and down the ladder as much.

It is best to this task in the early morning. That way you won’t get excess sun exposure. You will want to use a sturdy ladder that is tall enough for you to reach the gutters easily. One thing to remember is that rain gutters are not designed to support any weight. The person helping you should help steady the ladder when you are cleaning out the rain gutters.

To make the job easier and so you have less cleanup afterwards use a garbage bag to put the debris in and also make sure you wear gloves to protect your hands. Cleaning out your gutters is one of those dreaded jobs that needs to be done routinely to protect your home from damage.

The first thing to check are the gutters and downpipes – you may need to consider rerouting or extending downpipes so water does not concentrate by the side of the house, especially be careful with excess water accumulating at the corners of your property.  Excess water pools and puddles but it will seep into the foundations and the basement through cracks, causing warped and rotted woodwork, rusting and increased mold and mildew problems.

You can attach a “leader” to the gutter to take the water away from the foundations – if you do install these you should aim to have the water taken at least 10 feet away from the wall.

Some homes do not have gutters at all and this leads to problems with leaks caused by the water running off the roof directly onto the foundation at the foot of the wall below.  Where this is the case, establish where the “drip line” of the roof is, i.e. where the water hits the ground after running off the roof.  You should then dig a trench and use sturdy plastic sheeting over which you should place a plastic pipe.  The pipe should be perforated so it will collect the runoff and excess water which pools above – you should finally cover the pipe with a mixture of stones and soil to assist in draining the excess water.  The pipe outlet should then be directed away from the house and preferably towards a dry well or water outlet.

This is what you’re going to need:

Pavers - in the style and color you want. The manufacturer will specify how many pavers will cover a square yard or square foot but if you are laying a large area you will likely be ordering them by the ton so ask the supplier to do the conversion for you if this is not apparent. You should also order 15% extra to cover wastage and for making cuts as well as for keeping some as spares.

Sand and substrate – one cubic yard will be enough to cover an area of 108 feet to a depth of 3 inches. Again, if you order by weight (usually the ton) ask the supplier to perform the conversion for you. Substrate is also known as “paver base”.

Doing the Job

Ground preparation- dig down to the subsoil and remove any loam or soft earth.

Lay the substrate – spread out the paver base and compact this down firmly. You then lay approximately an inch of sand on the top. If you have clay as the underlying subsoil you should consult with your supplier to see what else you should be using to encourage good drainage and avoid flooding or excess water on the finished job.

Lay out the edge – fix edging strips to hold the pavers in place (usually metal or plastic).

Lay the pavers – start laying the pavers but a tip is to use a pattern which will reduce the number of cuts you need to make, for instance a herring-bone or diagonally set pattern will require all the edge pavers to be cut but a square or in-line pattern will minimize the need to make so many. The pavers should butt up to each other so they are snug and ensure they are level.

Fill the joints – use mason’s sand to fill the paver joints by sweeping the sand over the laid pavers. Use a vibrating plate compactor to work the sand deep into the joints which will stop the pavers from rocking or becoming loose.

Apply Sealer – you don’t need to seal the pavers but it is a good idea as this will prevent discoloration, weeds and mold. If you are using pavers next to a swimming pool it is essential that you seal the pavers as the join sand will come loose and this will block or damage the pool filters. First, clean the pavers and use a degreaser which should then be allowed to dry. Using a garden sprayer, apply the sealant with a mist setting and allow to dry. Note you will need to reseal on a regular basis, usually every couple of years.