Gutter Maintenance for Spring

Posted on September 15, 2011 by Karl

The rain gutters on a home have a very important purpose. They make sure the water from rain and snow are funneled away from your home. This is because water trapped in the gutters can seep into your home and cause major damage to walls and roofs. If you routinely clean your gutters you will be protecting your home from damage.

Cleaning out the gutters is one of the least favorite things that a homeowner has to do routinely. However, rain gutters are very important and help to protect your home. Gutters protect your home’s foundation from erosion and leaks when it rains. If leaves and debris clog your gutters it can hold stagnant water that could be a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

Cleaning out the gutters on your home is a fairly simple task to do. It involves using a ladder and your garden hose to flush out the debris. It is best if you have assistance when doing this. You will want to have someone around to turn the water on and off and to be there in case you slip or fall. If you have someone helping you the task will go faster and you won’t have to climb up and down the ladder as much.

It is best to this task in the early morning. That way you won’t get excess sun exposure. You will want to use a sturdy ladder that is tall enough for you to reach the gutters easily. One thing to remember is that rain gutters are not designed to support any weight. The person helping you should help steady the ladder when you are cleaning out the rain gutters.

To make the job easier and so you have less cleanup afterwards use a garbage bag to put the debris in and also make sure you wear gloves to protect your hands. Cleaning out your gutters is one of those dreaded jobs that needs to be done routinely to protect your home from damage.

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Spring Flooding: Protecting Your Home from the Thaw and Spring Showers

Posted on September 1, 2011 by Karl

While many of us are gripped in the snow and winter conditions, now may not seem like a good time to be considering the worst that can happen – flooding of our homes, especially the basement as a result of all of the snow melting and increased rain.  Nevertheless, now is the time to start thinking about taking steps to make sure flooding does not happen and the effects of excess water are kept to a dry minimum.

The first thing to check are the gutters and downpipes – you may need to consider rerouting or extending downpipes so water does not concentrate by the side of the house, especially be careful with excess water accumulating at the corners of your property.  Excess water pools and puddles but it will seep into the foundations and the basement through cracks, causing warped and rotted woodwork, rusting and increased mold and mildew problems.

You can attach a “leader” to the gutter to take the water away from the foundations – if you do install these you should aim to have the water taken at least 10 feet away from the wall.

Some homes do not have gutters at all and this leads to problems with leaks caused by the water running off the roof directly onto the foundation at the foot of the wall below.  Where this is the case, establish where the “drip line” of the roof is, i.e. where the water hits the ground after running off the roof.  You should then dig a trench and use sturdy plastic sheeting over which you should place a plastic pipe.  The pipe should be perforated so it will collect the runoff and excess water which pools above – you should finally cover the pipe with a mixture of stones and soil to assist in draining the excess water.  The pipe outlet should then be directed away from the house and preferably towards a dry well or water outlet.

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Exterior Work: Installing Pavers

Posted on August 18, 2011 by Karl

Pavers look great when properly laid and will dramatically enhance the curb appeal of your home and laying them is within the ability of any reasonably fit person, men and women.

This is what you’re going to need:

Pavers - in the style and color you want. The manufacturer will specify how many pavers will cover a square yard or square foot but if you are laying a large area you will likely be ordering them by the ton so ask the supplier to do the conversion for you if this is not apparent. You should also order 15% extra to cover wastage and for making cuts as well as for keeping some as spares.

Sand and substrate – one cubic yard will be enough to cover an area of 108 feet to a depth of 3 inches. Again, if you order by weight (usually the ton) ask the supplier to perform the conversion for you. Substrate is also known as “paver base”.

Doing the Job

Ground preparation- dig down to the subsoil and remove any loam or soft earth.

Lay the substrate – spread out the paver base and compact this down firmly. You then lay approximately an inch of sand on the top. If you have clay as the underlying subsoil you should consult with your supplier to see what else you should be using to encourage good drainage and avoid flooding or excess water on the finished job.

Lay out the edge – fix edging strips to hold the pavers in place (usually metal or plastic).

Lay the pavers – start laying the pavers but a tip is to use a pattern which will reduce the number of cuts you need to make, for instance a herring-bone or diagonally set pattern will require all the edge pavers to be cut but a square or in-line pattern will minimize the need to make so many. The pavers should butt up to each other so they are snug and ensure they are level.

Fill the joints – use mason’s sand to fill the paver joints by sweeping the sand over the laid pavers. Use a vibrating plate compactor to work the sand deep into the joints which will stop the pavers from rocking or becoming loose.

Apply Sealer – you don’t need to seal the pavers but it is a good idea as this will prevent discoloration, weeds and mold. If you are using pavers next to a swimming pool it is essential that you seal the pavers as the join sand will come loose and this will block or damage the pool filters. First, clean the pavers and use a degreaser which should then be allowed to dry. Using a garden sprayer, apply the sealant with a mist setting and allow to dry. Note you will need to reseal on a regular basis, usually every couple of years.

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Fixing a Continually Flushing Toilet

Posted on August 4, 2011 by Karl
A common repair problem is how to stop your toilet from continually flowing – in some instances, this will result in the toilet overflowing and causing a flood in the bathroom and the rest of the house.  Even if the toilet simply runs, it can create an annoyance with the sound of continuously running water as well as a high bill for the water which is wasted.
Fortunately, this is a problem which can usually be resolved with a few tools usually found in anyone’s home and nothing more messy than getting your hands wet.
The first thing to do is to try jiggling the flush handle to see if this frees the float-ball or flapper covering the water outlet to the toilet bowl from the cistern.  This blocks the continuous water flow and returns the toilet to normal operation.
Some toilet mechanisms have a tube running vertically inside the cistern which allows the water to overflow into the bowl should the ball-float not be working properly.  Usually you can simply adjust the float-ball mechanism so the water is not allowed to rise so high against the overflow tube.  Lift the top of the cistern to gain access to the float-ball mechanism and raise the float on its arm, usually a plastic or metal spindle.  If this stops the flow of water into the toilet bowl, you simply should bend the metal spindle so the float-ball will come to a stop at a lower level.  This will stop the water from rising too high within the cistern.  Ideally, you are looking to shut the water off so it stops rising within the cistern before it reaches half-an-inch to an inch below the top of the overflow tube.
The float-ball itself may have sprung a leak so it has become filled up with water which means it does not float properly.  You can diagnose this by turning off the water supply to the cistern and then flushing the toilet until the cistern is emptied.  Unscrew the float-ball from the spindle and see if has water inside it; usually it will feel heavy if there is water inside otherwise it should feel light (it is supposed to float on water after all).  If water has seeped into the float-ball you should replace it with a new one which is easily sourced from your hardware or home improvement store.  If you have the ability, replace the entire valve with a modern flush fitting which does not rely on a float-ball at all and you’ll never have the same problem again.
Another problem is with the flapper at the bottom of the system which covers the cistern outlet and allows water to flush down into the toilet bowl.  Flappers can become distorted or more usually they have a small link chain which becomes entangled with the flapper forcing it to remain open.  You can easily replace the flapper for around $10, again from a hardware store.  This job will take you less than 15 minutes to perform, but before you attempt to replace the flapper and/or the link chain, make sure you turn off the water supply and empty the cistern by flushing the toilet.
Occasionally, replacing the flapper will not rectify the problem because the valve seal has disintegrated or lost its integrity which means the leak continues.  You can “scour” the valve seal with wire wool or you can replace the flush valve assembly, but this is a much bigger job though within the ability of most people.
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Paint Options – How to Paint Anything!

Posted on July 21, 2011 by Karl

A lick of new paint freshens up anything and the smell alone is guaranteed to imbue a fresh, clean atmosphere into any area of the home but I’m often asked whether materials such as aluminum can be painted.  There is much more to your home than simple walls and wooden surfaces which are the traditional subject for an attack by paintbrush – modern homes include plastic, concrete and metal which are not usually known as being “paintable”.

I’m going to outline what you can do to paint a wide variety of materials without making it look like a botched, amateur job.

Plastic

Plastic can be painted but the problem has traditionally been an inability to get the paint to stick to the surface properly.  This led to ugly, application issues or peeling once the paint has dried – generally, a very poor looking finish.  Now there are paints which are specially formulated for application to plastic surfaces.  You are now able to give a new look to tired old garden furniture with a simple coat of paint – if the plastic surface is old, you usually only need to give it a wipe down prior to application, but if you have new plastic this needs to wiped with paint remover which will “rough up” the surface and improve paint adhesion.

Concrete & Masonry

Concrete is found around the home in all sorts of places from the floors and passageways, your basement and outside the home such as the driveway. You have a couple of options with concrete – you can paint it or stain it but, in either case make sure it is clean and dry.

A stain will seep into the concrete much the same way as it does with wood, the stain bonds with the concrete and forms a protective shield which provides a long lasting, decorative look.  Staining does not “cover” the concrete, unlike paint, so imperfections will be visible once you have stained it – if you need to perform a “cover up”, you will need to consider painting it.  Consider using a stain or paint which contains an anti-mildew ingredient and provides additional waterproofing.

Metal & Aluminum

Metal can be painted too and a simple coat of paint can dramatically improve the appearance simply by getting rid of rust!  You’ll need a wire brush to take to the metal surface or railings and once you have performed this chore, you should apply a primer and make sure it contains a rust inhibitor.  Use a high gloss paint for the best effect and enjoy!

Aluminum siding is not cheap and because it does get to look tired and unsightly with time, many homeowners consider replacing it with new siding.  They are pleasantly surprised when they find out how simple and easy it is to spruce up their existing siding installation with a paint job.  The first step is to remove the chalk residue which builds up on aluminum siding, and this must be done thoroughly using a degreaser or even a regular cleaner.  Don’t worry – it’s simple and easy to do.  If the original coating has completely worn away, you should use a primer but this is frequently not the case unless it is completely down to the metal.  Use an acrylic paint with a satin finish for the best results.

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Roof Aesthetics – How to Choose a Roof

Posted on July 7, 2011 by Karl

Your roof adds a substantial amount to the look of your home and it’s not just the roofline but the appearance of the roofing material you use.  While choosing a roof for its looks may be a major component of the selection process, you must also understand that your roof plays a vital part in ensuring the integrity of the entire structure and the contents – including you family.  This makes it vital that you understand what different roofing materials can provide for your home as well as making it look fantastic.

Roofing materials come in a very wide range of forms – slate and wood may lead the way in terms of natural materials, but manmade materials may be better in terms of both appearance and performance.  Which you should choose will be determined by a number of factors including their appearance but also:

  • Ability to withstand natural and environmental conditions such as high winds during a hurricane or heat resistance if you are in an area prone to wildfires;
  • The weight of the materials being used and whether the roof framing is able to support the roof;
  • How long will the roofing material last – some products may last 20 years while others are good for a hundred;
  • What do the local building codes or other restrictions have to say about the use of the material – is the proposed roofing material allowed or mandated by local regulations;
  • Ease of maintenance and cleaning – the last thing you want is a great looking roof which requires a regular visit topside when you are afraid of heights; and
  • What is it all going to cost?

The most popular roofing material are asphalt shingles with more than three-quarters of American homes using them.  They can be made using organic matting which is good for cold weather or be based upon fiberglass, which provides greater fire and water resistance, and then they are coated with granules.  They are a cheap roofing material and come in a wide variety of color variations so you are pretty well assured that you can get the appearance you are looking for.

Metal roofing is great for a traditional look and nothing beats the sound of the rain on a metal roof!  Usually made from a combination of the following – steel, aluminum, copper and zinc – they provide a long lasting roof which is lightweight and can be painted or if copper coated, can be left to acquire a green color as it ages.  They also allow for less heat absorption than asphalt and offer very high fire resistance but they are more expensive.

Clay tile is excellent for providing a Spanish, hacienda-look but the color can fade despite the long-life.  They offer low maintenance and excleent fire resistance but are easy to break and not such a good idea in areas where high winds are likely to be experienced – they are also very heavy and need appropriate roof support.  Concrete tile is a good substitute for clay tile if you are looking to cut the price tag but they are still not cheap however, they do everything a clay tile can do and can be made to look just the same.

Slate is one of the oldest roofing materials known to man and it offers very high fire, wind and water resistance but it is very expensive and needs trained roofers to fit it.  Slate also needs a high slope to be fitted onto and it is not suitable for a low pitched roof, while it is heavy and needs strong roof support.  It will last for more than a hundred years but the quality depends on where it originates from.

Finally, wood has long been used as a roofing material and it can come in sawn shingles or split shakes and while cedar is very popular, there are other rot and infestation resistant woods used as well.  Wood provides the ultimate natural look, but it comes with a relatively short lifespan and requires a lot of maintenance.  Obviously, not highly rated when it comes to fire resistance either though it can be treated with a retardant.

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Laying Tile Over a Plywood Subfloor

Posted on June 23, 2011 by Karl

When I started my career in the home improvement sector, laying a tile floor was a heavy and messy business, but fortunately, today it is a lot much simpler and straightforward.  New materials and techniques now allow for the do-it-yourself home improvement enthusiast to get their hands dirty, while saving a lot of money in terms of labor.

More than that, there is always the sense of satisfaction that goes with doing a job well in your own home.

The old method for laying tile over a wooden subfloor (usually plywood but not always) was to lay down a bed of mortar as prep for laying the tile.  Today, hardibacker or cement board cuts this job out and lends itself to handling and working by anyone with the ability to lift a ½ inch thick, 3×5 sheet.  Cement board is simple to measure and cut, even when you have odd angles or fittings to get around (such as pipes) and it is good for almost any situation.

Here are a few tips on what to do which you are not likely to find in the manufacturers guidance notes and which are gleaned from experience.

Always remove the old flooring covering because this will allow you to get a good look at the condition of the subfloor.  Years of water seeping through cracked grouting or sealant will create damp conditions and lead to rot – if you don’t look and check, you are not going to know you have a problem until your new floor starts cracking!  Repairing the subfloor is usually as simple as cutting out old wood and refitting with ply – a simple and inexpensive repair which can save your entire installation.

I always set new screws into the subfloor to ensure it is firmly fixed to the underlying joists.  Again, a simple and cheap task which can be done in a few minutes but by ensuring you have a firm subfloor, you will avoid movement which will lead to your new tile cracking or lifting.  Make sure you sink the screw heads into the ply so they do not “sit up” above the level of the subfloor and make sure you use corrosion resistant screws (never use drywall screws for this job).

Use a leveling compound (lightweight gypsum) to make sure you have no voids or gaps, and this is also useful for any low spots you have in the subfloor.  Take extra care if you don’t have a level subfloor, as sometimes it’s better to simply take it up and use shims to get a level surface rather than apply layers of leveling compound.

You’re now ready to start laying tile, or at least you are once you’ve cleaned the area so it is free of dust and unwanted objects such as loose screws.  You can lay a tile floor over an existing one, but I don’t recommend this – the subfloor and old tile must be in excellent condition and you have to scuff up the old tile so the tile adhesive can stick to it.  Best to remove the old tile and lay cement board as above and make sure you have the proper foundation.

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Dealing with Condensation

Posted on June 9, 2011 by Karl

Condensation is caused when warm air meets a cold surface or indeed, more cold air – the warm air carries more moisture but the sudden cooling causes this to precipitate and collect, or condense, as water.  It is the reason why storm fronts drop a stack of rain but in your home, it is typically because warm air is meeting your cold windows, and the water condenses on the surface of them and frequently will pool on the sill.

Condensation needs to be dealt with or managed if it cannot be entirely prevented.  Mold and mildew will use condensation to help them get established and grow, and this will create health issues as well as appear unsightly and will lead to rotten woodwork and damaged window frames.

You can reduce condensation by increasing ventilation and paying special attention to areas where condensation is always at risk f being formed – typically the kitchen and bathroom.  Make sure you use bathroom fans and kitchen extractors whenever you are bathing or cooking, and you will probably notice a distinct improvement immediately.  Using air conditioners will also cause the air to become less humid while making sure you enjoy a quick shower and only run full washing loads in your dishwasher and washing machines will also help.

If these measures do not help you with the issue, then it’s time to bring in an expert.

Sometimes you may experience condensation in your sealed window units, between the panes of glass which make up the assembly.  If you have this problem, you have a failed window unit and you will need to replace the glazing and possibly the entire unit.  Make sure your sealed windows carry a guarantee for at least 10 years – one good mark of quality is the IGCC – the Insulation Glass Certification Council.

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How to Perform an Emergency Roof Repair

Posted on June 5, 2011 by Karl

It’s a fact of life – you never know you have a leaking roof until you have one vital ingredient – water!

We usually discover a leak when we have a particularly heavy rainfall, that means during a storm and usually it has to be the middle of the night too!  It’s just a fact of life we all have to live with but there are things you can do straight away to minimize the damage and impact on your home – but always remember, be safe first!

It is also a devil of a job to locate exactly where the leak is coming from when it appears, so it is better to simply cover off a section of the roof rather than spend time in inclement conditions, trying to specifically locate the leak.

You can make an emergency cover for your leaky roof using plastic sheeting and lengths of 2×4’s.

First, the plastic sheeting should be fairly thick (6-mil is good) and you need to unroll enough of it to cover off the section of roof.  You are looking to have a length of sheeting which will run from the eaves to over the ridge line, and add another 4 feet just to make sure.  Cut the end of the sheeting with a utility or craft knife.  Use a length of 2×4 which is cut to the same length as the width of the sheeting and staple or tack the sheeting to it.  Lay another length over this to sandwich the sheeting between the two lengths of wood and secure this using 3-inch nails.

Next, place the sandwich assembly along the eaves and then run the plastic sheeting up the roof and over the ridge line.  Secure the sheeting on the other side of the roof using another pair of 2×4’s but don’t secure this section with nails or fasteners.

Do NOT nail any part of the temporary cover to the roof!

NEVER go on a roof during a thunderstorm, take care you do not step onto the plastic sheeting, especially if it is wet and do not try to perform this on a steep-pitched roof.

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Cleaning Your Gutters

Posted on May 12, 2011 by Karl

Your gutters provide a safe and effective path for rainwater to run off and away from your home, but you need to make sure that it is kept clean and free of blockages which can lead to expensive repairs. Typically, the gutters fill with dead leaves and other detritus which accumulates over time and especially at this time of year with Fall and the wetter weather.

If you let your gutters deteriorate, then eventually water will pour down on to woodwork, siding and create damp around brickwork and foundation of your home. More than this, the weight of accumulated debris and trapped water will eventually lead to a weakening of the gutter fixings which in turn, can lead to the gutters and downpipes coming loose from their mounting.

You can hire someone to perform the service for you, and if you are uncomfortable working up a ladder, and certainly if your roof is more than one story in height, you should consider this option, otherwise you can easily do the job yourself and save some valuable money.

You should clean your gutters at least twice a year and more often if your roof is situated under trees (because of the debris not just from falling leaves but also from branches and twigs). You will need a sturdy ladder; a step-ladder is best but an extension ladder can also be used as long as you are careful when you set it up – it will lean against the gutter and you must not break it. You can protect the gutter to some extent by placing a piece of 2 x 4 inside it. At all times, ensure the ladder is standing on a firm base and is secure before you climb it.

It is dangerous to work from the roof side rather than from a ladder – only if you have a very gently steeping pitch and have good weather conditions, so the roof is not wet, icy or has snow on it and there is no wind, should you consider working from the roof itself.

First step is to scoop out the loose debris and start from the low end of the gutter at the point where it meets the drainpipe. Next, use your water hose to apply a jet of water under pressure to clean away any more stubborn debris and finally, make sure the drainpipes are not blocked (use a plumber’s auger or snake to clear blocked drainpipes).

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