Home Improvement For You » Home Improvement

DIY Headboards

admin — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:54:15 +0000

One of the most expensive purchases for a bedroom is by far the furniture. You can spend thousands of dollars on a bedroom suite. If shelling out this kind of money just isn’t in your budget, there are some simple and creative ways you can make your bed look beautiful for pennies on the dollar of a traditional bed.

What makes a bed stand out the most is the headboard. You can easily make a gorgeous headboard yourself with a little bit of time, effort and creative thinking. In order to make your own headboard, think outside the box. Many materials you can use for a headboard had other original purposes like folding closet doors, old windows or even part of a fence. Sand, repaint and upholster to give them new life then secure them to the wall behind your bed. Get creative when repurposing materials. Use painters tape to tape off designs and layer on the colors.

One of my favorite headboard projects is a padded headboard. All you need is a piece of plywood, foam, some fabric and a staple gun. Secure the foam to the piece of plywood then stretch your fabric around the entire piece. Secure the fabric to the back of the plywood with a staple gun and in a couple hours you have a totally customized headboard for well under $100. What’s great about this project is that the options are endless. You can go to a fabric store and choose any fabric you like, guaranteeing a perfect match to your décor.

Another great way to set off your bed is with a draped fabric headboard. Make a simple cornice box out of some plywood and fabric (similar to the process for a padded headboard) and secure it to the wall. Go to the fabric store and pick out one or two fabrics that complement your décor. Begin by securing them inside the cornice box then drape them with a few hooks for a truly elegant look for half the price of a store bought piece.

Best Buys for the Season

admin — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:52:55 +0000

Even though the thoughts of backyard barbeques and mowing the lawn on the weekends is slipping slowly from our minds, it is the best time of year to prepare for next year. Once the height of the summer has passed and the winter holidays begin creeping up, retailers are desperate to empty their stock of summer items. Here are some great end-of-season buys that can save you big bucks for next year.

One of the biggest money savers at the end of summer is on patio furniture. Many retailers take deep discounts on sets in order to move them quickly. In order to find the best deals, it’s best to wait until after labor day. If you can stand to wait a few months before you can use your awesome new patio furniture, you can easily save yourself hundreds of dollars and possibly buy a nicer set than you could originally have afforded.

Another area that retailers give huge discounts in at the end of summer is on lawn equipment. If you have been thinking about buying a new lawnmower or if your trimmer has taken a turn for the worse, fall is the time to buy. After labor day, you should be able to find discounts on lawn and garden tools of at least 30% if not more. They might sit in your shed for a few months, but the amount of money you can save is well worth the wait.

When it comes to your yard, making it beautiful can be expensive – espeically when it comes to new plants. In the springtime when most people are planting, the prices hit record highs. However, once autumn hits, stores are desperate to get rid of any leftover plants. If you live in an area where it will still be warm for a few weeks, you can save some serious dough. Many stores discount their plants up to 80% off! You won’t see the results of your savings until they bloom next spring but that’s about as close to seeing money on a tree as you can get!

Splurge or Steal – Wood Floors

admin — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 13:54:23 +0000

You want to put down wood flooring in your home, but have no idea where to start or what to choose. Sound right? This is a common frustration among homeowners because there are so many choices. To break it down simply when it comes to wood flooring, you really have two options – hardwood and laminate. Here’s how they stack up:

Real hardwood flooring, while it will cost you more than laminate, will provide you with a few important benefits. You can’t beat the appearance of a true hardwood floor, they really are beautiful. Many of the hardwood options out there are also quite scratch resistant. Another benefit of hardwood floor is ease of repair. It is relatively easy to repair any damaged boards and you can also sand them down for refinishing. If you take good care of your hardwood floors, they can last for 30 years or more.

Laminate flooring is definitely the more cost efficient way to go and it also provides some benefits. The appearance of laminate has improved greatly but still will never stand up to a true hardwood. However, laminate flooring is extremely durable, scratch and stain resistant, making it an excellent choice if you have small children and or pets. Laminate flooring also requires very little maintenance and is easy to clean. With laminate however, it is more difficult to replace any boards that get damaged and this type of flooring cannot be refinished.

So, when deciding on true hardwood or laminate, consider your circumstances and weigh all of the pros and cons. Either way, you are sure to end up with some beautiful new flooring!

Splurge or Steal – Refrigerators

admin — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 13:51:44 +0000

There is no doubt about it that new appliances in a kitchen can add a lot of value to your home, especially if you are ready to sell. There are a ton of different options out there when it comes to refrigerators. Here are some choices for every budget and purpose:

Let’s start with the steal. You don’t have to spend thousands of dollars to get a decent refrigerator with ample space. A great example is the LG Bottom Freezer mount refrigerator. It should run you just under $800 and comes from a reliable brand of appliances. At 22.4 cubic feet it provides plenty of storage space and is energy star certified to cut your electric bill. It has temperature controls and plenty of freezer space. There is no icemaker/water dispenser on the front but if you are willing to do without this feature, this is a great steal.

If you are looking to go more mid-range when purchasing a new refrigerator, consider a style like the Maytag French Door refrigerator. This type of fridge is going to run you about $1200-$1500 but if you shop well, you can find a great deal. This particular fridge offers a ton of space at 25 cubic feet and the French door style really opens it up. When you go for a mid-price refrigerator you are also typically going to get an ice/water dispenser on the door. This style of fridge is going to give you the most bang for your buck when it comes to resale.

If you want to splurge on your new refrigerator, there are some great options that will put you right in the lap of luxury. Try the LG stainless steel double drawer French Door refrigerator. This fridge offers features like a double drawer freezer pullout, 27.5 cubic feet, slide out spill proof shelves and an extra tall ice/water dispenser. At about $2200 it may hurt the pocket but you can’t find a better appliance.

Splurge or Steal – Hot Water Heaters

admin — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 13:33:41 +0000

With everybody trying to save money these days, people are taking a lot closer look at home appliances and their efficiency. One huge draw of energy in a home is the hot water heater. There are a lot of options to choose from nowadays, so which direction should you go when it’s time to replace?

The first option is your typical, hardware store hot water tank. Depending on the size, one of these is going to run you $300-$500. Many of the hot water tanks now are energy star certified and have multiple settings to help you save money. With this type of hot water system, you are going to have the same old issues like possibly running out of hot water if you have a lot of people trying to use all of it at once and it can take a minute or two for the hot water to reach you. If there is cold water sitting in the pipes, it needs to be flushed out before the hot water can make its way through. So, going with this old reliable is still a good choice in today’s economy and if you buy the proper size for your home, it should serve you quite well.

If you are feeling a bit more adventurous and want to splurge on a new hot water system you might consider going tankless. These systems have been around for a few years now but are going to run you about $1000. The tankless water heaters boast an endless amount of hot water as they are attached directly to your pipes and constantly run water through the unit. If you have a large household, these might not be the best option for you as the water still has to have time to heat up. With these tankless systems, the temperature often fluctuates. So, if you have a relatively small household with low water usage, this could be the way to go.

Fixing a Continually Flushing Toilet

Karl — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 20:15:00 +0000

A common repair problem is how to stop your toilet from continually flowing – in some instances, this will result in the toilet overflowing and causing a flood in the bathroom and the rest of the house. Even if the toilet simply runs, it can create an annoyance with the sound of continuously running water as well as a high bill for the water which is wasted.

Fortunately, this is a problem which can usually be resolved with a few tools usually found in anyone’s home and nothing more messy than getting your hands wet.

The first thing to do is to try jiggling the flush handle to see if this frees the float-ball or flapper covering the water outlet to the toilet bowl from the cistern. This blocks the continuous water flow and returns the toilet to normal operation.

Some toilet mechanisms have a tube running vertically inside the cistern which allows the water to overflow into the bowl should the ball-float not be working properly. Usually you can simply adjust the float-ball mechanism so the water is not allowed to rise so high against the overflow tube. Lift the top of the cistern to gain access to the float-ball mechanism and raise the float on its arm, usually a plastic or metal spindle. If this stops the flow of water into the toilet bowl, you simply should bend the metal spindle so the float-ball will come to a stop at a lower level. This will stop the water from rising too high within the cistern. Ideally, you are looking to shut the water off so it stops rising within the cistern before it reaches half-an-inch to an inch below the top of the overflow tube.

The float-ball itself may have sprung a leak so it has become filled up with water which means it does not float properly. You can diagnose this by turning off the water supply to the cistern and then flushing the toilet until the cistern is emptied. Unscrew the float-ball from the spindle and see if has water inside it; usually it will feel heavy if there is water inside otherwise it should feel light (it is supposed to float on water after all). If water has seeped into the float-ball you should replace it with a new one which is easily sourced from your hardware or home improvement store. If you have the ability, replace the entire valve with a modern flush fitting which does not rely on a float-ball at all and you’ll never have the same problem again.

Another problem is with the flapper at the bottom of the system which covers the cistern outlet and allows water to flush down into the toilet bowl. Flappers can become distorted or more usually they have a small link chain which becomes entangled with the flapper forcing it to remain open. You can easily replace the flapper for around $10, again from a hardware store. This job will take you less than 15 minutes to perform, but before you attempt to replace the flapper and/or the link chain, make sure you turn off the water supply and empty the cistern by flushing the toilet.

Occasionally, replacing the flapper will not rectify the problem because the valve seal has disintegrated or lost its integrity which means the leak continues. You can “scour” the valve seal with wire wool or you can replace the flush valve assembly, but this is a much bigger job though within the ability of most people.

Laying Tile Over a Plywood Subfloor

Karl — Sat, 05 Dec 2009 14:48:26 +0000

When I started my career in the home improvement sector, laying a tile floor was a heavy and messy business, but fortunately, today it is a lot much simpler and straightforward. New materials and techniques now allow for the do-it-yourself home improvement enthusiast to get their hands dirty, while saving a lot of money in terms of labor.

More than that, there is always the sense of satisfaction that goes with doing a job well in your own home.

The old method for laying tile over a wooden subfloor (usually plywood but not always) was to lay down a bed of mortar as prep for laying the tile. Today, hardibacker or cement board cuts this job out and lends itself to handling and working by anyone with the ability to lift a ½ inch thick, 3×5 sheet. Cement board is simple to measure and cut, even when you have odd angles or fittings to get around (such as pipes) and it is good for almost any situation.

Here are a few tips on what to do which you are not likely to find in the manufacturers guidance notes and which are gleaned from experience.

Always remove the old flooring covering because this will allow you to get a good look at the condition of the subfloor. Years of water seeping through cracked grouting or sealant will create damp conditions and lead to rot – if you don’t look and check, you are not going to know you have a problem until your new floor starts cracking! Repairing the subfloor is usually as simple as cutting out old wood and refitting with ply – a simple and inexpensive repair which can save your entire installation.

I always set new screws into the subfloor to ensure it is firmly fixed to the underlying joists. Again, a simple and cheap task which can be done in a few minutes but by ensuring you have a firm subfloor, you will avoid movement which will lead to your new tile cracking or lifting. Make sure you sink the screw heads into the ply so they do not “sit up” above the level of the subfloor and make sure you use corrosion resistant screws (never use drywall screws for this job).

Use a leveling compound (lightweight gypsum) to make sure you have no voids or gaps, and this is also useful for any low spots you have in the subfloor. Take extra care if you don’t have a level subfloor, as sometimes it’s better to simply take it up and use shims to get a level surface rather than apply layers of leveling compound.

You’re now ready to start laying tile, or at least you are once you’ve cleaned the area so it is free of dust and unwanted objects such as loose screws. You can lay a tile floor over an existing one, but I don’t recommend this – the subfloor and old tile must be in excellent condition and you have to scuff up the old tile so the tile adhesive can stick to it. Best to remove the old tile and lay cement board as above and make sure you have the proper foundation.

Winterizing & Weather-Stripping

admin — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 14:42:56 +0000

Now that cold weather is upon us, it is time to consider winterizing your home. With soaring electric bills, one huge consideration is heating costs. There are a few simple steps that you can take to substantially lower your heating bills and stay warm in the process.

First, you will need to inspect your home. Check the exterior first. Check the roof for missing shingles or leaks. Make any necessary repairs. If your home has a fireplace, check to make sure that the chimney is in working order. Replace any broken or cracked bricks. Now make sure that your gutters are free of debris. Check the exterior window screens and window casings.

Now, you want to check the interior. Check the fireplace first. Repair any cracked or broken bricks, check the damper to make sure that it is working properly and shuts tightly, and clean out all of last years ashes.

Walk through every room. You will need to check all electrical outlets to make sure they still fit close to the wall. Now check all windows. More heat escapes and cold air penetrates through loose or broken windows than any other area of your home.

If you have an older home, you will need to pay close attention to your windows. Weather stripping your windows is one easy and inexpensive way to save money on your electric bills.

If you are planning on installing the stripping yourself there are a variety of choices:

· Felt-If you are on a tight budget felt will work. It will not insulate as well as the others, but it will definitely work and is very easy to install.

· Foam-It should have adhesive on one side for easy installation.

· Interlocking-This is probably the most difficult to install as the pieces need to fit together perfectly, so you may consider hiring a professional.

· Spring Metal-It is usually packaged in a roll and should come with the brads you will need to install it.

· Vinyl-It comes hollow or foam-filled and it is generally applied to the exterior of your home. The foam-filled provides more insulation than the hollow variety.

You should be able to find most weather stripping at any home improvement store and the majority will be sold separately or in a kit that will include all of the hardware that you will need and they are all sold in a variety of colors and finishes. Depending on which type you choose, you will need a few simple tools-a hammer, screwdrivers, tape measure, pencil, scissors, and a hack saw or tin-snips.

Prior to installing the new weather stripping, remove any old stripping or debris. Now is probably a good time to clean around the windows and window sills. If you are applying adhesive stripping, make sure that everything is completely dry before starting the application process.

It is best to install weather stripping to windows before the cold weather hits. Set aside a nice day and take your time. This is not difficult but does take patience. As with all home improvement, if you have any questions, consult a professional.

Tips on Making Your Own Storm Windows

admin — Mon, 10 Nov 2008 14:41:31 +0000

With today’s rising costs on everything from fuel to home improvement, learning to do some things yourself and taking the time to do them can save you a lot of money in the long run. One easy way to save money is by making your own storm windows.

First calculate the dimensions of each window in your home and decide if you want a single (full-length), two-piece, or three-piece sash. The single storm sashes are the simplest to assemble but the two or three piece are sturdier. If any window is larger than 9 square feet, you will need to assemble the two or three piece sash. Depending on your budget, the least expensive storm windows are made of aluminum and can be made for much less than ready-made storm windows.

The tools that you will need:

Hacksaw
Small Miter Box
Sturdy Hammer & Nails
Small Screwdrivers (regular and Philips Head)
Jamb Brackets & Screws
Combination Square
Sturdy Clear Tape

Depending on the type of sash that you are making you will need to follow the following dimensions:

Single Sash-1/8 inch smaller than the width and height of the window
Two-Piece-1/4 inch smaller than the width and height of the window
Three-Piece-3/8 inch smaller than the width and height of the window

You might also be interested in placing storm windows on basement windows. If so, the storm windows can be installed on the inside and are usually ¾ inch more than the width and height of the windows. They can be secured with wood screws.

Since most home improvement stores offer free glass-cutting if you purchase the glass at their store, you will not have to worry about this. Remember to have the glass cut

1 1/16 inch smaller that the outside measurements of the aluminum frame (See Above). Single strength glass is acceptable, but double-strength can be purchased for a few pennies more and is well worth it. All you will need to concern yourself with is the aluminum sashes and corner locks and the proper tools.

If you are replacing old storm windows you can check the measurements of the aluminum prior to sizing and cutting the new aluminum. The original storm windows probably fit perfectly so using them as a guide will make your job easier.

Now remove the glazing channel before cutting the new aluminum sash. Place the channel around the perimeter of the glass, taping into place if necessary. Use the combination square to show 45° angles, and then cut the glaze from the corner and the aluminum with a hacksaw. File off any rough edges.

You are now ready to push the corner locks into place. Place the new sashes over the top and bottom on the pane, then add the sides. Make sure that the new sashes fit snugly and they are centered.

For added security, mount two jamb brackets (one on each side) to the top of the window about 1 inch from outer corner of the window casing. Now screw the counter jamb brackets to the top and 1 inch from the corner of the new aluminum sash. You may now put the new storm window into place.

Due to global warming and shifts in weather patterns storms, tornados, and hurricanes seem to hitting America more frequently and with higher intensity than ever before. Help protect your home by adding storm windows that can reduce drafts, heating and cooling costs, and help protect your home and family.

Cutting Oak Flooring to Fit

admin — Tue, 05 Apr 2011 14:35:55 +0000

Making sure your wood flooring fits correctly and adds value to your room is essential when you are making improvements to your home. Oak flooring can swell when wet so it is essential to get this right and make sure you have covered every angle.

Once purchased, your Oak flooring should be stored in a dry place away from any risk of damp areas that will cause the wood to swell and expand.

Make sure there are that you wish to lay the oak flooring is dry. Especially if placing on top of a concrete can contain a large amount of moisture which will create a barrier between itself and the wood. Concrete or screed should contain a damp proof membrane and have a moisture content of no more than 5%.

Once you have checked the area for the above you can start preparing your materials for action.

Oak Wood Floors

The best fitting methods for solid floors are to either nail down to the Sub Floor (discreet nailing through the tongues) or glue the floor down directly to the Sub Floor.

For nailing down directly the flooring nailers are best used as these will automatically fire the nails at the correct angle.

For gluing the boards down direct a special heavy duty adhesive needs to be used this is applied with a trowel over the whole floor. It can be a messy alternative.

Floating the floor is not recommended for solid wood in normal circumstances.

The main tools for the job

Flooring nailer (or similar) if you are taking this option.

If you are gluing floors down directly to the sub floor you will need the adhesive and a trowel. The tongues and grooves do not need to be glued and no underlay is used.

A wood cutter – 10” Miter Saw is a common tool for any hand man laying hard wood flooring and a jig saw will cut irregular shapes.

Curving Wood Floors Make Less Waste (ecomagnificent.com)
How to Properly Transition Ceramic Tile to Wooden Floor (brighthub.com)
How do you know if the floors in your house are hardwood (wiki.answers.com)